A Northern California Coastal Roadtrip
A 40th Birthday Road Trip through Coastal California
Hi friends,
I just returned home from a 10-day road trip from Los Angeles to the Smith River, which is at the very top of coastal California, and I’d love to share with you the places we loved along the way. No surprise here, but the coastal route of Northern California is full of epic beauty. This guide will be told through the lens of two 40-year-old artists with a large dog, an SUV, and a love of the outdoors. Cue the Subaru commercial.
It’s easiest to break California’s vast landscape into counties, as each one has its beauty and treasures. Since we had previously explored areas north of Los Angeles, like Big Sur, our new-to-us discoveries road trip technically started in Marin County.
Marin County
Seven hours up the road from LA, you’ll find Marin County, just across the Golden Gate Strait from San Francisco. Marin felt like every beautiful food and architecture magazine I’ve ever seen come to life. The green, sprawling Marin Headlands are dotted with artisan cheese shops along the highways, and we wove in and out of redwood groves and oyster bays that felt like scenes from a John Steinbeck novel. The culture of conscientious (and expensive) living felt especially strong in Marin.
Where to Stay
Dancing Coyote Beach Cottages: I almost don’t want to share this spot because it was so good. We stayed in a pet-friendly cottage on Tomales Bay called Dancing Coyote Beach Cottages. The cottages have a beautiful garden overlooking the bay, and each cottage comes with a fireplace and a private outdoor shower. Heaven!
Where to Eat
The Marshall Store: Tomales Bay is known for its oysters. We ate lunch at The Marshall Store, which overlooks the bay and the fishing boats. Get the homemade garlic bread!
Things to See
China Camp Village: This is a historical shrimp fishing village from the 1880’s that still stands today. If you’re interested in hand-painted signage and history, this is the spot for you!
Marin County Civic Center: Frank Lloyd Wright’s Largest Public Project. Was I screaming over the stop sign designs and window shapes? Yes.
The Town of Point Reyes Station: A dreamy town serving as a gateway to Point Reyes National Seashore. You’ll find a great grocery store here, along with a few bakeries, nice restaurants, and a cool record store called Loose Joints. I bought a loaf of bread and some butter from the grocery store, and we sat in one of their many community garden spots.
Cypress Tree Tunnel: The drive alone to the Cypress Tree Tunnel is worth the trek. You’ll weave through wetlands, hills, and ocean views as you make your way to this beautiful tree tunnel formed by the ocean winds. Be sure to check out the Maritime Radio Receiving Station while you’re there!
Mendocino County
We made our way north on the Pacific Coast Highway, HWY 1, up to Mendocino. If you have the chance to drive up Highway 1, please do it! It’s a winding road that was far more remote than I imagined. There were so many opportunities to pop down to a beach or pull over at an overlook. Cellphone service was very limited, which made it even better in my book.
The town of Mendocino was a highlight of our road trip. This tiny town is full of things to love, like New England architecture, great food, an A+ dive bar, a jaw-dropping coastline, and a river with crystal-clear water and a soft sand beach that will leave you floored every day.
Where to Stay
Gardenseal Ranch: We stayed at a friend of a friend’s cabin that was a 5-minute walk from town and the Mendocino Highlands. Did I almost faint when I walked in the door because of the design details like the tile, the ocean view, the textiles, and the wood pillars? Yes.
Where to Eat
Elk Cove Inn: My husband, Dan, booked this spot for my 40th birthday. It’s run by a husband and wife duo (and their dogs that greeted us!). He’s the French chef, and she’s the sommelier. Need I say more?
The Waiting Room: Grab a coffee and stroll down to Big River from here!
Café Beaujolais: A California French restaurant that opened in 1968.
Mendocino Market: Grab a sandwich for lunch. They also serve fresh catches of the day, so we picked up some freshly caught Rockfish here and made dinner.
Things to See
Mendocino Headlands: If you want to feel like you’re in Game of Thrones or on the Cliffs of Moher, go here!
Big River: Do I feel like crying while writing about Big River? Yes. It’s emerald green. It’s crystal clear. It has sea otters, kayaking, and soft sand beaches for swimming and cold plunging.
Dick’s Place: The best dive bar west of the Mississippi. Bring cash!
Humboldt County
Humboldt County is the gem of California. Known for its magnificent Redwood Tree Groves and the cannabis “green rush”, there is a lot to explore here. It was easy to feel torn between wanting to stay in the towering Redwoods in the state park and wanting to explore the coastal towns of Eureka, Trinidad, and Shelter Cove.
Where to Stay
Scotia Lodge: A 100-year-old boutique hotel right on the edge of the Redwood State Park. A beautiful and historic hotel, but either bring meals with you or eat before you go!
Where to Eat
Seascape Cafe: A 1950s diner known for its fresh fish and chips and blackberry pie in Trinidad, CA
Things to See
Avenue of the Giants: A 31-mile scenic highway running through Humboldt Redwoods State Park
Ferndale, CA: A historic Victorian village known for its preserved architecture, where the buildings are affectionately called "butterfat palaces" for their dairy industry roots.
Trinidad State Beach: You know those coastal photos where you see large rocks towering out of the water with cliffs and pounding waves? This is it.
Confusion Hill: A true vintage roadside attraction. Seeing is believing!
Romano Gabriel Exhibit in Eureka: Wooden Sculpture Garden of Artist Romano Gabriel
Eel River: A beautiful river known for its salmon and steelhead fish, as well as swimming holes and rafting
California’s Lost Coast
The Lost Coast is technically in Humboldt County, but this area deserves its own section. The King Range Mountains is a wild land of forests, fog, and black sand beaches. Due to its ruggedness, Hwy 1 was unable to continue through this area, thus leaving it incredibly remote. We made our way down to the coast to Shelter Cove. A town with a population of 764 and found really delicious food, drinks, and a place to stay right on the ocean.
Where to Stay
Black Sands Inn: Right on the ocean for a view and a price that can’t be beat.
Where to Eat
Mario’s Marina Bar: Oh boy. The best cocktail in all of the land. And the design inside? A+. Not to mention, I wanted to be best friends with the owner.
Gyppo Ale Mill: Incredible fresh fish!
Things to See
Little Black Sand Beach: Powerful ocean waves that make you feel small in the world.
Del Norte County
Jedidiah Smith Redwoods State Park was our final northern California destination. The park contains a significant portion of the world's remaining old-growth redwoods and we were lucky to be able to camp under them and next to the Smith River.
Where to Stay
Camp at Jedidiah Smith Campground: I loved camping under the towering redwoods and having access to the emerald green Smith River right next to our tent. It rained a bit in the evening, but the trees were so big overhead that we didn’t feel a drop!
Things to See
Cal Barrel Road Redwood Trail: If you have a dog, unfortunately, they aren’t allowed on the state or national park trails. But we found a great dog-friendly trail to walk through the redwoods!
Whew! Thanks for joining along. It’s hard to capture Northern California’s beauty in just one post. I’ll never forget this trip!
Love,
Beth
Dream road trip! Thank you for sharing links and details!